In the unlikely event that you have problems with your Parmaker, we have provided a trouble shooting guide and some frequently asked questions to ensure you are up and running again in no time.
The electronics of your Parmaker Scout is clever enough to tell you when something is wrong. When something is wrong it will beep. Different beeps mean different things.
Alarm Tone |
Problem |
|
Single Beep |
• | Everything is ok |
Rapid beeps |
• • • • • • • • • | Tiller unplugged |
Constant tone |
_________ | Battery connection is reversed |
1 long, 2 short |
— • • | Motor is disconnected or there is a motor problem |
1 long, 3 short |
— • • • | Battery is very flat (less than 8 volts) or faulty cell in battery |
1 long, 4 short |
— • • • • | Electronics damaged. (Return electronics for service) |
1 long, 5 short |
— • • • • • | Short in tiller or electronics socket. |
1 long, 1 short |
— • | Buggy out of range. (remote control machines only) |
If one of these alarms sound, the machine can be reset by disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery connectors or bypressing the stop/start button on the tiller of the machine. If the problem that caused the alarm to sound is still present, the alarm will sound again.
Symptom |
Possible Cause |
Machine won't last full round and gets slower before stopping. |
Battery is worn out, uncharged or undercharged. |
You got 18 holes the last time you played, but only 9 this last time. |
Battery has not been charged. |
You still get 18 holes but is quite slow. |
Faulty cell in battery. |
The machine stops and then gives the OK beep. |
Bad electrical connection. |
Sometimes the machine won't restart after a shot, but will go if it is pulled backwards slightly. |
Motor problems, send motor and gearbox to Parmaker for repair. |
The electronics of your Parmaker Spirit or Explorer is clever enough to tell you when something is wrong. When something is wrong it will beep.
Alarm Tone |
Problem |
|
Single Beep |
• | Everything is ok |
Rapid beeps |
• • • • • • • • • | Motors are stalled and the machine has reduced power to avoid damage. |
1 long, 2 short |
— • • | Motorfault detcted. |
1 long, 4 short |
— • • • • | Electronics damaged. (Return electronics for service) |
Identifying faults does not help you on the golf course, but will help you to work out where the problem lies and which components need to be returned to parmaker for repair.
If one of these alarms sound, the machine can be reset by disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery connectors or bypressing the stop/start button on the tiller of the machine. If the problem that caused the alarm to sound is still present, the alarm will sound again.
Symptom |
Possible Cause |
Machine won't last full round and gets slower before stopping. |
Batteries are worn out, uncharged or undercharged. Wet batteries may not have sufficient water. |
You got 18 holes the last time you played, but only 9 this last time. |
Battery has not been charged. |
You still get 18 holes but is quite slow. |
Faulty cell in one or both of the batteries, or the twist grip out of adjustment. |
The machine stops and starts. |
Poor electrical connection. Check the connections between the batteries, between the tiller and the frame looms and between the frame loom and electronics. |
Machine won't go, but jumps a few inches when key is inserted. |
Blown electronics. Return to Parmaker for repair. |
Machine "shudders" at slow speeds. |
Faulty potentiometer in handle. Replace potentiometer |
Machine squeeks when turning corners or leaning sideways. |
Dry rear axels. Remove wheels and grease axles. |
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Welcome,
Thank you for your inquiry regarding Parmaker golf and mobility vehicles. We are proud of the products we manufacture and are confident that if you take the time to read the information in this kit, you will be convinced Parmaker offers the best value. Please feel free to print out and keep this information.
We are very serious about our guarantee. If you are not completely happy after taking delivery of your new Parmaker, send it right back and we will refund the purchase price (excluding freight). Our only conditions are that the unit be returned to us in the original packaging and in unused condition.
The only consideration is your choice of battery and charger and which combination best suits your needs. The Scout buggy requires one battery and the ride-on vehicles require two. Both machines have "optional extras" you may also purchase. Our advice is to keep it simple and only purchase those options you genuinely need.
There two types of battery...
The wet-cell type and the dry or gel (sealed) type. While wet-cell batteries are cheaper, dry batteries are more convenient and the extra cost can be justified. We do not ship wet-cell batteries because they can spill, so unless you are in a position to pick up from our factory, you will need to purchase these locally. More information on batteries and chargers is detailed on other pages in this kit.
Parmaker have been manufacturing and selling ride-ons and walkers for more than 25 years and believe we know which batteries and chargers are best for our products. If you do as we suggest, you will reduce the potential for problems.
Wet batteries and appropriate chargers are available almost everywhere.
Our prices for freight are detailed on the price pages and provide delivery to your door anywhere in Australia. We only ship via our own carriers but take responsibility for arrival in good condition.
Please note: We cannot ship to post office boxes or RMBs, and we do not ship wet-cell batteries.
We are confident of the quality of our products, so a "no quibble" 5 year warranty is offered. However, unforeseen problems can arise. In the unlikely event of you having a problem with your unit, call us. Most problems can be solved over the phone and are relatively easy to fix. If you need a part, we can post it to you in an "Overnight-bag" and you will normally have it within 24 hours. If you can get to our factory, your machine will generally be fixed while you wait.
The easiest way to buy a new Parmaker is online. Just go to the buy online page, where you can order and pay securely through PayPal. Alternatively you can download an order form, print it out, fill it in and then send it to us with your cheque, money order or credit card details. Please do not send cash to us through the mail. Once we have received your order, we will dispatch the goods immediately. You should receive your Parmaker within three (3) working days of receiving your order.
Ordering and paying for something before you receive it can be daunting. If you are concerned about anything at all, do not hesitate to call us and we will happily answer any questions or concerns you have.
...and don't know where to start. This section is designed to help you choose the best buggy for your particular requirements.
Three wheelers are designed to carry your clubs without you hanging onto the buggy. Two wheelers need one hand on the buggy at all times. Be careful of two-wheelers that have a front wheel as an option. Their balance is often wrong and can be prone to tipping over on hills and can be hard to turn. Buggies driven by the front wheel (not the back wheels) may have traction problems on hills. Does the buggy have the means for absorbing the shock of uneven ground? Beware of spoked wheels. They catch sticks. Make sure the wheels are solid.
Even the best golf courses are not always smooth and lush. The buggy you buy will take a lot of punishment. Two 18-hole games each week for a year is about 1,000 kms. Look at things like axle thickness, whether or not all wheels have bearings, how big the clutch-bearings are, how powerful the motor is - things like that. Assess general robustness for yourself by looking and comparing.
Some machines are built to carry only one kind of battery. This means you can never change your mind about the battery you use. Make sure the buggy you buy gives you the most options by allowing you to use different types and sizes of battery.
The capacity of a battery (the amount of fuel it contains) is governed by the amount of lead inside it. Generally speaking, fuel = lead = weight. Be cautious of small, light batteries.
Anything that makes the buggy more complex increases the likelihood of you stopping mid-game. Our advice is to "keep it simple". Avoid hinges and complex wheel locking mechanisms etc.
Just because a machine has a locally made frame does not mean it is Australian made. Ask the "manufacturer" or importer where the expensive components (gearboxes, motors and electronics) are made, what the replacement cost is and if your intended supplier has them on hand as spares. Something built here can be fixed here.
There are two kinds of buggy - fold up and take apart. Fold up machines take up a lot of boot space because the entire buggy is one piece. "Come apart" machines allow the individual pieces to pack into the nooks and crannies of the boot.
Don't be fooled. Almost every electric golf buggy sold in Australia is made somewhere else. "Made in Australia" seems to mean that some assembly is done here, and that drives us mad.
Most of our competitors knock up a frame locally and then buy the expensive, wheels, gearboxes, motors and electronics from overseas. It's a simple job then to bolt it all together and say "Made in Australia". You could probably do it yourself if you have a garage, a welder a credit card and a telephone.
Parmaker has invested heavily in the technology to produce wheels, tyres, gearboxes, gears (we actually cut the teeth on the gears), electronics and frame ourselves. We even make the speed control knob and hubcaps. Granted, we do buy the motors and box seats (walker) from others, but at least they are Australian manufacturers.
In building the entire machine ourselves we feel we can control quality, offer lower prices and a faster, cheaper repair service than if we imported all the complicated hard components from overseas.
When a company claims that it is a "manufacturer" and has a "factory", go the next step and ask them exactly what it is they make. We think you'll find it is not very much.
Calm down you traditionalists. Plastics are stronger than steel in the right application. We are making the chassis of our walker buggy out of a special engineering plastic now; a glass fibre reinforced polypropylene (if you want to get technical about it). The same stuff used to make bumper bars on cars.
Why is plastic stronger than steel? Here is the answer. Each time steel is stressed, it's molecules are changed and weakened. Every bump you hit weakens steel a little bit, so no matter how thick and heavy you make things out of steel, eventually they will break. They have to.
Engineering plastics on the other hand have a thing called a yield-point. Plastic will flex when it is stressed and as long as it is not flexed to this yield point, it will recover with all of it's original strength.
We developed a test in our factory to compare the strength of our new chassis to that of our steel chassis (which by the way was the strongest around anyway).
Here is the bottom line.
Our new chassis can't break. We dare you to break it.
It's lighter. The maximum lift of our machine is less than 8 kgs.
Paint can't peel off and it can't rust.
It is perfect and consistent every single time. No possibility of bad welds etc.
It looks great.
Combine these advantages with a machine that has the most power, the most efficient motor and gearbox combination and most sophisticated and reliable programmable electronics (with optional remote control) of any machine around, and you must reach the conclusion that that a Parmaker is smarter, stronger and built better.
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